Installation of the Millerized Highway Pegs

Suggested Installation Guidelines, your installation might vary slightly.  Please read through these and get an idea of what you’re going to be doing before you start wrenching.  It’s a simple process, but for the un-initiated can be a daunting task: cutting into your baby!  If you need assistance, or can’t figure something out, please give me or a friend a call. If'n you need a laugh, and some factual info on the warranty/guarantee or the disclaimer, CLICK ME

NOTE/CAUTION/WARNING/DANGER/HEY!!!!: 1986 models will require cutting of the middle fairing.  This is due to the smaller duct openings, much smaller than the later models.  These fairings can be identified by the screw in vents.  This should, and I re-emphasize "SHOULD" have changed by the 87'/88' models.  The newer models have an opening approx 1.250" front to rear, the older ones about .750".  It will require a bit of cutting, but they WILL fit that bike.  If you don't want to cut into your baby, send them back. We won't even argue with you on this part. Hacking exterior bodywork ain't right.

Click on any of the photo's below for a larger version

OK, here goes….

 Put motorcycle on stable, flat surface. Gravel doesn’t always hold a kickstand!

 Put motorcycle on Center Stand, that way you can wrench on it, set on it and admire it, without it ending up on it’s side.

Pull off lower cowling, put in a safe place so you don’t run over it.   Pull off left and right middle fairings.  These are the ones that attached to what you just pulled off. Again, safe place.  You remember where all those screws went?

Pull off the left and right lower heat ducting.  Keep these out, you’ll be cutting on them soon

Starting on the left side, pull out the bolt shown in the center of the picture (it’s a  14mm head), kind of hidden by shadows. (Just to the right of the SS clamp. )  It’s about 2” long, make sure you get it all.  There’s one on the other side, but you’ll get to in when you do the right mount.

 Remove the peg ends from black brackets, put bolt and peg end in safe place so you don’t lose the bolt/nut.  Don't wanna scratch that pretty coating, do you?

Put left peg on left side, using included, longer bolt (new bolt is a 17mm head).  Left and right pegs are marked on the non-painted side, the side that fits against the motor mount.  If the pegs aren’t marked, the hole on top of the bracket goes towards the back of the bike, not the front.  Luckily, even if THAT doesn’t clear it up, they won’t fit any other way.  Don’t crank on the bolt yet. 

Do pretty much the same with the right side bracket and bolt.

You’ll need to make sure that the middle fairings fit, so put the left and right middle fairings back in place (don’t have to bolt them in to see if the pegs will interfere) and make sure everything is centered.  (Small tweaks can be made with a rubber mallet once the fairings are installed).  Lower doesn't have to be reinstalled just yet, but make sure the front radiator side cowling bolt/screw is in place.  This will give you an idea of just how close you are.

Once you’re satisfied with the fit, gently pull off the fairings (yes, again) and torque the bolts (left and right sides) to 40ftlbs (or Gutentight) without moving the bracket.   Make sure that none of the edges, bolts or peg brackets are contacting anything they shouldn’t.

    ((The heat shields are going to be the hardest part of the whole deal.  My personal opinion is to leave them off and make sure you’re going to like the pegs before you start hacking internal bodywork. (no hacking of external bodywork necessary)   You can test ride the bike without the heat shields on, just don't be out there all day like I know you're gonna do))

    Put the middle fairings and lower cowling on, then the lower cowling.

Put the peg ends back on the brackets, lightly tightening the bolts until they just tension the peg end on the bracket.  You want them to easily be pushed by hand or foot, but not rattling around while riding.  They go on 2 ways, but will only work on one.  The self-locking nut will prevent them from falling off.

Try the pegs out, set on the bike on the center stand.  See if they fit you.  Take it for a short ride.  Make sure they fit what you’re looking for.   If they don’t do it for you, you’re going to be happy you didn’t cut anything yet.  Take them off and send them back.

    OK, you’re back from what ended up a 3hr ride and you like the pegs.  (If not, pull them, put them back in the box and send them back for a refund) People are now staring at your half naked Connie, and you’re getting nervous about them.

    Bike back on secure area, and back on center stand.  Remove the peg bolts and ends, securing them where you won’t lose them.   Pull the lower cowling and middle left and right fairings if you installed them for the test ride.

Some folks have had luck doing the marking for this part BEFORE taking any bodywork off.  When you first put the bike up on the center stand, measure from the top of the fairing vent opening DOWN 2-1/8" inches, and from the bottom of the fairing vent opening UP 1-1/8".  The space between this junction is the top and bottom of the peg mounting bracket. Marking these points, centered in the fairing opening should give you a good place to start with your hole cutting.   Any adjustments can be made easily by filing out a bit more of the hole. These are approximate measurements taken from several different installs.  The measurement might vary, but will get you in the close.

 A 1” round hole or ¾” square hole is what you’re going to need.  This is the place I’m supposed to put the phrase “then a miracle occurs”. (¾” hole is harder to place than the 1” hole-saw)  Hot knife, saber-saw, coping saw, drilling many little holes around the outline of a square will all work.  I just placed the heat ducting close as I could to where it is supposed to go, and semi-accurately guesstimated.  Put them as close as you can to the original locations.  Measure the distances, front and rear of where the screw holes are.  This will give you an idea of how far from each side you have to go.

Start in the center of the location, and work out.  If you find you’re going too far back, take a bit more out of the front. Same with the North/South direction. You’ll eventually have the hole of your dreams, a perfect fit for the peg bracket and slides right up to the screw holes. If not, it’s all hidden anyway, just get it close.  (Oh, and that plastic gets brittle with age and heat.  Just thought you’d like to know)  Just get it close, and screw the top in, and the bottom in. Do this to both sides.

ALL RIGHT!!! The hardest part is done!! But don't crack the beer open yet.....yer bike is probably still nekkid!!

Put middle left and middle right fairings back on, putting screws finger tight.  Put lower cowling back on.

You should have 2 peg brackets still centered in the louver openings.  You can tweak them slightly with a rubber mallet if they need tweaked fore or aft. (If they’re too far out, you’ll have to loosen the bolt, re-position it and re-torque.)  Put the peg ends back on, again tighten the bolts till they just snug the pegs to the brackets. Just enough friction to hold them up, but not enough to have to really push them to get them back down.

Make sure you tighten all fairing and cowling bolts and screws.  Re-attach all removed farkles (toys, cooterments, frills) and go riding.

If you like them, let me and the world know.  If you don’t, let me know.  I’ll make it right.  Should you break something off accidentally, give me a shout.  If it falls apart, we’ll make it right.  Should you slide them down the road, doing pirouettes and making sparks, I’ll sell you another set.

Should you have difficulties in getting these on, give me a shout.

millerized@millerized.comm